102
102
Of woven links
18k yellow gold
Signed Hermès, maker’s mark for Georges L'Enfant
9 ¼ ins; Gross weight 55.7 dwts
estimate: $8,000–10,000
result: $23,750
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Hermès Chaine d’ Ancre
Since its inception in 1938, the Hermès Chaine d’ Ancre bracelet has been an icon of style. Modeled after a ship’s anchor chain, the design is both sporty and elegant making it easy to wear and immediately popular. The original design was created by Robert Dumas, member of the Hermès family (later the company’s CEO from 1951-1978), and several notable versions have been introduced over the years.
The present lot stands out among the most highly collectable versions of the Chaine d’Ancre bracelet. It features the discrete lozenge-shaped maker’s mark from the house of Georges L’Enfant—a mark representing the best of French craftsmanship—and the skilled chain-work of Jacques L’Enfant, son of Georges.
An unsung hero in 20th century jewelry design, Georges L’Enfant worked for many of the best jewelry houses including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Bulgari, and René Bovin. His son Jacques began working with him at the age of eleven before undertaking a variety of apprenticeships in Europe honing his skills in both design and metalwork. Jacques developed a brilliant understanding of texture, shape and color creating distinctive and quintessential pieces and is well-known in the art and jewelry worlds.
