Rago Auctions

In the 1950s, watch brands such as LeCoultre, Wittnauer, Vacheron Constantin, and Longines, adopted the ‘Mystery’ or ‘Galaxy’ dial for their dress watch models. Conceived by Louis Cartier and inspired by the work of illusionist and watchmaker Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin (1805-1871), the ‘Mystery’ or 'Galaxy' dial features two round diamond markers that appear to float around the dial completely detached from the watch’s underlying movement. Acting as the traditional hour and minute hands, they are placed on two invisible discs layered on top of each other, creating the illusion of being suspended. The ‘Mystery’ or 'Galaxy' dial still fascinates collectors today.

Take a closer look at vintage examples of Jaeger-LeCoultre watches from the 1950s and 60s and you might notice dials stamped, simply, “LeCoultre." The reason for such an oddity is tied to something surprisingly mundane: import taxes. Dials marked in this way were produced for the US market between the 1930s and the 1970s due to high tariffs meant to protect US watch companies. Jaeger-LeCoultre, who was still invested in the US market, found a loophole by exporting only the movements, plus dial, and then manufacturing the cases locally within the United States. The dials exported were stamped “LeCoultre” to denote their status as partially Swiss- and partially US-made.

The present lot comes from the collection of Michael Heltzer (1960 – 2023), a self-described “designer and dog guy.” While in law school in the 1980s, he discovered a passion for furniture design and went on to found his eponymous company, Heltzer, in 1986. The company swiftly grew into a major design and manufacturing organization with up to 30 craftsmen producing over 200 original designs. Heltzer’s unique combinations of materials such as stainless steel, titanium and bronze with teak wood and silicone gels earned him design awards and editorial features in The New York Times, Metropolitan Home, Elle Decor, Interior Design, Dwell and GQ as well as over 100 newspapers and journals. After selling his furniture business he founded Stay Dog Hotel, a full-service boarding, grooming, veterinary service, training, and rehabilitation venue, and Henry Dog Design, a collection of impeccably designed products for dogs.