Robert Phillips, of Phillips Brothers (later Phillips Brothers & Son), was a renowned figure in the archeological revival jewelry movement in England in the late 19th century. His jewelry was influenced by various historical periods, including Assyrian and Scandinavian art, as well as Etruscan designs. Phillips received recognition for his exquisite craftsmanship, winning a gold medal at the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1867, becoming the only English jeweler to achieve this honor. His clientele included notable figures like Albert Edward, Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII), and John Campbell, Marquess of Lorne. Phillips created jewelry pieces inspired by Assyrian hardstone seals discovered during Middle East excavations, famously completing a gold-mounted parure for Sir Austen Henry Layard's wedding in 1869. His work was characterized by its historical themes and meticulous attention to detail, often drawing inspiration from museums and picture galleries.
During the Victorian era, many people in England became captivated by ancient civilizations, particularly inspired by the archeological findings in Pompeii and Herculaneum in the 18th century. This fascination led to the resurgence of archeological-themed jewelry, with Etruscan revival jewelry being a notable example. Etruscan revival forms drew inspiration from the ancient Roman Empire, especially the Etruscan civilization, renowned for its advanced architecture, art, and jewelry. These pieces feature distinctive techniques like granulation and filigree, intricate designs with cannetille, shell elements, micro-mosaics, and mounted gemstones. The Castellani family, notably Fortunato Pio and Alessandro Castellani, played a pivotal role in popularizing this style by blending contemporary craftsmanship with Etruscan aesthetics. This jewelry gained prominence during the 1860s to 1880s, coinciding with the American Civil War, which made Victorian mourning jewelry appealing to American society. Today, collectors highly covet archeological revival jewelry for its craftsmanship, historical significance, and increasing rarity in the modern market.
