Rago Auctions

Setting artifacts in jewelry is not a new tradition, but Bulgari has a particular talent for making it modern, chic, and fashionable. The ‘Monete’ collection, featuring coin-set jewelry, debuted in the 1960s, when Nicola Bulgari, grandson of the founder, urged the house to create a collection that spoke to his coin collecting interest. Bulgari has used both Ancient and 19th and 20th century coins for these necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and rings, mostly set within a solid 18k gold frame, sometimes accented with diamonds and “pippoli,” Bulgari’s endearing term for small cabochon gem accents. The necklaces, which are the most popular, follow with a wonderfully heavy curb link chain.

However, Bulgari did not stop at coins and during the 1970s they also created a series of cameo and intaglio jewelry. Once again, while they were passionate about history, they understood how to create elegant yet cutting-edge jewelry for the modern woman. As Nicola Bulgari has stated, “We offer an ancient coin, a relic of the past, the prospect of a second life. […] Instead of leaving it closed in a drawer, we transform it into a living thing.” A cameo is an ancient art of carving a gem or shell in sculptural relief. It is the opposite of an intaglio, in which the gem is carved inward to create a positive image when pressed on something soft, like wax for a seal. Hardstone cameos, like agate, require much more skill than the softer shell cameos and are often judged by the intricacy of the carving and the use of the banded layers for color and relief.

The Bulgari necklace offered in the present lot, a one-of-a-kind piece, is a fine example of the historic crossing with the contemporary. The pendant has sleek, oval lines with an off-center set cameo of a male profile and is suspended from a signed Bulgari collar choker.

In the ever-changing world of high fashion, Bulgari jewelry has positioned itself as a timeless and enduring icon. Renowned for its opulent designs, unparalleled craftsmanship, and rich heritage, Bulgari has seamlessly transcended the boundaries of time, consistently capturing the essence of elegance with jewelry designs that stand as chic symbols in contemporary culture. At the heart of Bulgari’s enduring allure is its commitment to a design philosophy that combines classic sophistication with boundary-pushing creativity. The brand's ability to create pieces that resonate across generations while incorporating innovative elements speaks to its relevance in today's world of fashion.

The endorsement of Bulgari by influential celebrities has played a pivotal role in further elevating its status over time. Renowned public figures from the realms of Hollywood, music, and beyond have adorned themselves with Bulgari creations for films, television shows, music videos, concerts, red carpets, and galas. The brand has thus become a go-to choice for celebrities of all kinds. Ever since Elizabeth Taylor became enamored with Bulgari while in Rome in 1962 to film Cleopatra, an increasing number of famous people began seeking out jewelry by the esteemed maker. While Bulgari cannot confirm whether Taylor wore any of their designs in the film itself, she definitely wore Bulgari on set, as she made many trips to Bulgari’s retail shop while in Rome. Indeed, Taylor did much to popularize the now iconic 'Serpenti' collection, featuring snake-inspired designs.

Along with Taylor's contemporaries Sophia Loren and Audrey Hepburn, some of the actors or performers who have worn Bulgari in recent decades include Sharon Stone, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Kiera Knightley, Charlize Theron, and Lady Gaga. Just within the past couple of years, Bulgari has experienced increased demand from the general public and celebrities alike. At high-profile events lately, the likes of Anne Hathaway, Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Zendaya, and Lisa from Blackpink have all donned dazzling Bulgari arrangements.

In the evolving landscape of fashion, Bulgari has showcased a remarkable ability to adapt to changing tastes and fleeting trends without compromising its distinctive identity. Whether through collaborations with contemporary artists or the introduction of modern materials, Bulgari continues to redefine luxury in a way that remains relevant and fresh. In large part, this is thanks to Bulgari's popularity with celebrities who wish to make dramatic fashion statements through glamorous yet classic jewelry designs.