Rago Auctions

In the late 19th century, the Arts & Crafts movement developed in England as a reaction against the mass production and industrialization of the Victorian era. Led by figures such as William Morris and John Ruskin, the central Arts & Crafts ethos emphasized traditional handcrafting techniques, simplicity in design, and natural materials. Arts & Crafts jewelry, which was produced in England, America, and elsewhere, stresses the beauty of handmade objects and celebrates the inherent qualities of materials. Therefore, examples regularly feature hammered metals like silver and copper, showcasing their texture and warmth. Arts & Crafts jewelry is likewise inspired by nature, folklore, and medieval craftsmanship, with motifs such as stylized flowers, leaves, birds, and mythical creatures. Gemstones are used sparingly, with an emphasis on their natural colors and formal properties rather than their intrinsic value. Enamel work, often earth-toned, is also common, adding depth and color. In England, notable Arts & Crafts jewelry was produced by Charles Robert Ashbee and his Guild and School of Handicraft, as well as Charlotte Newman and Archibald Knox. Across the Atlantic, some of the finest American Arts & Crafts jewelry makers included The Kalo Shop, Matthias W. Hanck, Robert Riddle Jarvie, Marie Zimmermann, James H. Winn, The Rokesley Shop, Frank Gardner Hale, Josephine Hartwell Shaw, Edward Everett Oakes, Margaret Rogers, and Clemens Friedell.