Art Deco—defined by geometric shapes, abstract design, and lavish color—was the visual hallmark of luxury, glamour, and industrial progression. A product of innovative new machinery, economic growth, and social freedoms, the style was first introduced in France before World War I. However, it wasn’t until the 1920s, after the war, that it began to gain international traction. Antique and traditional techniques were revitalized as artists, designers, and architects applied the style across a broad range of visual fields, from opulent structures and interiors to fashionable handheld objects.
The Capstick-Dale collection illustrates forward-thinking artistry and mastery of materials on a small scale. From Jean Dunand’s fashionable eggshell technique to the exploration of lacquer techniques and engine-turned ornamentation, the objects in this auction are exquisitely detailed masterpieces of innovation and beauty.
It is in the realm of collectible objects that Art Deco has proved supreme. —Victor Arwas
Like priceless gems or tantalizing candies, the Art Deco treasures of the world-renowned Capstick-Dale Collection are small, colorful, and precious—portable emissaries of glamour, optimism, and exquisite craftsmanship arriving to the present from an era past. Encyclopedic in scope, this vast collection spans lighters and cigarette cases, minaudières, compacts, jewelry, and other personal accoutrements, together comprising a heralded and historically important group of objects sourced from around the globe and put together over the course of a lifetime. Documented in the Thames & Hudson volume Art Deco Collectibles and with examples from Jean Dunand, Raymond Templier, Gerard Sandoz, and Paul Brandt, among others, these works offer a truly illuminating glimpse of the Art Deco ethos and lifestyle. And while they are certainly a distinct product of a specific historical moment, they also speak to the timeless and universal allure of beautiful, small things to hold in one’s hand—or slyly retrieve from one’s pocket or purse.
Spanning from 1920 to the conclusion of World War II, the Art Deco era encapsulated a range of social shifts that, significantly, included an unprecedented marriage of design and manufacture. Resulting in what Jared Goss dubbed “the democratization of design,” this newly cemented partnership meant, as noted in Art Deco Collectibles, that “From the 1920s [on,] beautifully designed and well-made objects became widely available for the first time.” Marking a break from the ornate, flowery style of Art Nouveau, Art Deco aesthetics embraced linear geometries and influences that included Cubism, the Vienna Secession, Fauvism, and historic styles from China, Japan, India, Persia, and Egypt, as well as new materials including chrome, stainless steel, and plastic. With expert artisanry and manufacturing techniques to bring it all together, Art Deco objects embody the anticipation of a future whose doors had been flung wide open technologically and culturally.
With expert artisanry and manufacturing techniques to bring it all together, Art Deco objects embody the anticipation of a future whose doors had been flung wide open technologically and culturally.
While the Art Deco period ended when WWII shifted the attention of both consumers and manufacturers, the appreciation for the era’s material culture—particularly personal effects—has remained fervent, in no small part because of the undeniable and lasting quality of fabrication. When Rodney Capstick-Dale began to collect such items in the late 1960s, his passion was shared by figures including Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, and Andy Warhol. From highly rare objects, including two Raymond Templier cigarette cases and a German Expressionist-influenced Cigarette case and lighter by Gerard Sandoz, to compacts, smoking accessories, and perfume packaging from unknown makers, each object in the Capstick-Dale Collection represents both an impassioned collector and an explosively exciting and generative moment in global history.
Raymond Templier 1891–1968
Raymond Templier was a significant figure in the Art Deco jewelry movement. Born in Paris into a family with a strong jewelry-making tradition, he studied at the École Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs, where he developed a unique style influenced by Cubism and modern art. He also found inspiration in the mechanical—cars and their component parts, gears, propellers, buildings. After joining the family business in 1919, Templier began creating innovative pieces characterized by geometric shapes, clean lines, and a modernist aesthetic. He often utilized materials such as silver, white gold, lacquer, and diamonds, crafting jewelry that emphasized simplicity and sophistication.
Templier's designs were revolutionary, as he moved away from the ornate styles of the past towards a more streamlined and abstract approach. This avant-garde perspective led him to co-found the Union des Artistes Modernes (UAM) in 1929, a group dedicated to promoting modern design principles across various art forms. His work was celebrated for its boldness and elegance, earning him a reputation as a pioneer in the field.
Throughout his career, Templier exhibited widely, including at the prestigious Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in 1925, where Art Deco was formally introduced to the world. His contributions significantly shaped the trajectory of modern jewelry design, influencing future generations of designers. Raymond Templier's legacy is remembered for his artistic vision and his role in transforming jewelry into a form of modern art.
