Rago Auctions

His jewelry embodied the very essence of Art Nouveau, was of the highest quality, and featured exemplary craftsmanship and technical prowess.

Louis Aucoc was born in 1850 into a family of renowned gold and silversmiths who had been involved in the business since 1821. He went on to take over the established firm of Maison Lobjois in 1877, founding Maison Louis Aucoc and participating in national and international exhibitions the following year. His jewelry embodied the very essence of Art Nouveau, was of the highest quality, and featured exemplary craftsmanship and technical prowess. In fact, Aucoc’s reputation in these early years was already so significant that René Lalique (represented in this collection by an important necklace), who went on to become a master in his own right, apprenticed with Aucoc’s firm from 1876 to 1878.

Aucoc’s position as a leading Parisian jeweler was bolstered by his extensive involvement in the development of the goldsmithing and jewelry professions in his home country. He was a member of the jury for the 1889 and 1890 Expositions universelles in Paris; served as president of the professional association of Parisian goldsmiths and jewelers (the Chambre syndicale de la bijouterie-joaillerie-orfèvrerie); and actively organized and promoted exhibitions and competitions. His many contributions and activities earned him the esteemed Légion d’Honneur in 1889 and the Rosette d’Officier in 1900.

Aucoc’s exquisite Art Nouveau jewelry is represented in the Bromer collection by this superb Symbolist pendant necklace depicting the birth of Venus.

Aucoc’s exquisite Art Nouveau jewelry is represented in the Bromer collection by this superb Symbolist pendant necklace depicting the birth of Venus. Impeccably crafted in gold and colored with enamel, it depicts the head of Venus surrounded by seaweed against the curving arms of a diamond-studded starfish, complete with a teardrop pearl accented with a single, larger diamond. The marine theme symbolizes Venus’ birth while the starfish represents her namesake, the morning star. In both style and execution, this creation encapsulates the very best aspects of Aucoc's work from this period.

David Jonathan Bromer spent his childhood a block from the ocean in Miami Beach; I grew up 1,500 miles north, also a block from the ocean, in Winthrop, Massachusetts. We met through a mutual friend when David was a junior at M.I.T. and I was a sophomore at Emerson College. At nineteen years old each, we were certain we would be happy together, so we married in 1962. David completed his doctorate degree at M.I.T. in metallurgy and worked in the field of science for ten years. We dabbled in collecting and selling rare books as a hobby until we were able to fulfill our dreams and become full-time antiquarian booksellers. 

In 1980, David and I moved our antiquarian book business, operating under the name of Bromer Booksellers, to Copley Square, Boston. We specialized in “The Book Beautiful,” as coined by T.J. Cobden-Sanderson in his 1900 publication, The Ideal Book. All the elements of creating the ideal book, from text to handmade paper, illustrations, calligraphy, and binding, unified to form a beautiful book. Book design of the Arts & Crafts period, c. 1895-1915, especially captured our interest. In 1993, we were gifted a small estate of gemstone jewelry from David's family, which had us thinking about the link between book designers and well-designed jewelry.

In 1993, we were gifted a small estate of gemstone jewelry from David’s family, which had us thinking about the link between book designers and well-designed jewelry.

British book designers led the way in creating handmade books distinguished by good typography, design, and materials, and several of them were also jewelry designers. Charles Robert Ashbee, printer at the Essex House Press in the Cotswolds, England, was the first book designer to cross over into jewelry. His private press books were exquisite works of art, some printed on natural calfskin called vellum. We were able to purchase one of his rare peacock necklaces executed at the Guild of Handicraft in Chipping Camden and designed by Ashbee. 

Arthur and Georgie Gaskin were known for their illustrations in children’s books as well as Arthur’s beautiful drawings for one book printed by William Morris at the Kelmscott Press. The husband-and-wife team began working together at the turn-of-the-century to create foliate necklaces that are festooned with wire and semi-precious stones. When Arthur died in 1928, Georgie continued making beautiful necklaces on her own.

In June 1997 I wrote “Three British Book Designers and their Arts & Crafts Jewelry” for Antiquarian Book Monthly. By then we were expanding our collecting vision to include representative pieces from designers further afield than the British Isles. We were seeking variety with excellent design and materials and eventually added pieces from France, Germany, Austria, Spain, America, Denmark, and Russia.

Our jewelry has been photographed in major jewelry references and exhibited at the Driehaus Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, and the Forbes Galleries, New York. 

Our collection largely focused on necklaces, pendants, and brooches, with a bracelet and several rings included. The necklaces are presented in silver and gold; some with enameling and the French examples with plique-à-jour. A variety of precious and semi-precious stones were used as well as crystal and paste. Several are in their original boxes, and most are signed or verified as to the maker. Our jewelry has been photographed in major jewelry references and exhibited at the Driehaus Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, and the Forbes Galleries, New York. 

Art Nouveau, the new art, was an integral component of modernism. Whether it was labeled Arts & Crafts in Britain, Jugendstil in Germany, Wiener Werkstätte in Austria, it was revolutionary in accenting fine design and the elements of care in producing fine, handmade objects. Nature and female forms are thematic in the jewelry. Flowers, leaves, and insects—all are incorporated in pieces, as is the birth of Venus from a diamond studded starfish and a green enameled mermaid with a golden thread.

Art Nouveau, the new art, was an integral component of modernism. Whether it was labeled Arts & Crafts in Britain, Jugendstil in Germany, Wiener Werkstätte in Austria, it was revolutionary in accenting fine design and the elements of care in producing fine, handmade objects.

When I lost David in 2021, I continued to buy a few pieces, but the partnership for the hunt and then the enjoyment of ownership was no longer possible. It is the season now to bid adieu to these incredible pieces of jewelry, all of which I have loved and most of which I took pleasure in wearing at least once. I am delighted to have the collection offered in an open auction for others to appreciate.